Thursday, September 23, 2010

IT ALL STARTED THROUGH A GRAPEVINE….

 

Grapes grown as a shade and for the food table.


It took me a while to learn the say the country’s name, what more to learn to spell it correctly. Now I am standing here, embracing the new air around it.

The idea was mooted to me about a year ago. “How would you like to join me to Krygystan”? Huh? What? Where? Is there such a name? Next I know was, I was planning my job around this trip. I was tight-lipped on this, having bad experiences being overly excited over any trip.

Well, there I was, in the soil of Tashkent… alone. Somehow my travel partner was caught up somewhere with red tape. How was I to face a foreign country alone? Oh well, everything has its first time. Luckily for me, accommodation was taken care of earlier and the hotel was well situated near the city and airport.

The reception guys (and gals too) were friendly enough for me to strike up a good conversation to ask how do I get around. Got myself a city map and off I went wandering in the streets.

Children of Uzbek

Tashkent has its colourful culture and to check it out, the marketplace was the place to go. They called it “bozori” (bazaar). The nearest bozori to the hotel was within a walking distance. Well, it was a good 30 minutes walk to the Mirabod Bazaar.

Mirobod Bozori
The bozori is nothing like the wet markets at home, more of a cross between the wet market stuff with “kedai runcit” environment set in a hypermarket space. Being on a weekend, the bozori was teeming with locals buying produce of tomatoes, potatoes, capsicums and what nots. Tomatoes and aubergines were the size of an ostrich egg.  Camera started clicking away and locals were more than happy to share their moments.


Herbs, potatoes, vegetables to shopping cart service



Honey ladies, raw honey of various quality and taste


Large tomatoes, small cucumbers



Peach vendors are more than happy to have a photo taken

At first, communication was a hiccup. The main language spoken was Russian and Uzbek.  Other than the basic greeting of “asailaimualaikum”, “mualaikum-salam” and “rahmat”, I was lost for words. I was hopeless at sign language but somehow a thumbs-up and a smile did the job. I ended up with a peach in hand and bananas in my bag. Well, the language section of the travel guide did help too, with common phrases like “change money”, “yes/no”, etc..


One historic figure of Tashkent was Amir Temur (web search it and loads of info comes up). Since the museum of Amir Temur was airconditioned, it provided a great relief.


Musuem of the Timurids
Inside the museum


The court of Amir Temur
They did built great monuments, which are still standing today.


Not contended with just Mirobod Bozori, by accident I stumbled upon another market, Oloy Bozori.  It too has its own uniqueness.  It is one of the 3 bozori that is must visit (the other being Chor-su bozori)

Cottage cheese and yoghurt ladies



A delicacy, lamb fat

One local drink that has caught my fancy, though the original was credited to Russia, was the Baltika beer. There are a few variants, namely No. 0 (no alcohol but taste horrible), No.3 (4.8%), No.5 (did not get to drink this), No.7 (5.4%) and No.9 (8.4%). Having tasted the number in descending order, I gave my vote to No. 7 and No.9.  After a long hard day of walking, a cold beer was most welcome.


Baltika No.9


Chor-su Bozori is a must, being one of the largest market in Tashkent. Being on a Sunday, it was teeming with people. Anything and everything under the sun from fresh produce to jeweleries are sold. With a systematic layout, common goods are group to a section. One can really get lost here… which I did.


Chor-su panaroma



Shopping at Chor-su

Rice and lentil sellers
Not all vendors are locals, this lentil vendor is from Tajikistan. I was impressed that all wore a blue uniform.

Spices are part of daily life
Taken in by a local delicacy made of milk and salt, this goes down well with beer
As the country is more than 80% muslims, all food are halal. Beef and mutton rules the meat section, with the occasional chicken and horsemeat. Unfortunately for me, the food was too good to give it a miss and I ended up putting more than just a few grammes to my weighing scale.


Fresh out from oven

Mutton and beef fill the air

My last meal in Tashkent, slightly luxurious. The “Caravan” restaurant was of a lovely romantic atmosphere….. it does makes one fall in love Tashkent in its own unique way.


“Caravan” restaurant



Local dishes of horsemeat soup, mash aubergine and pilaf (rice)


Leaving Tashkent was an episode itself. I was looking for a flight out from the city to Biskek and 3 air ticketing agencies told me "fully booked" for 2 weeks. How was I to get out of the country? Well, being alone in foreign soil has its advantages. I encounted a good samatarian at the third agency, who to my greatest relief, spoke good English. Not only he helped me to in translation, he even offered to fetched me to the airline office to get my air tickets. (Mr X, thank you).

Finally my travel partner arrived on my last night in Tashkent. Departing Tashkent was an episode itself. Custom checks were "stringent" and somehow, I ended departing Tashkent in the same manner I arrived... alone again.

Tashkent International Airport



I wish I could spend little longer in Tashkent, which there are more of adventure to explore. Maybe one day I will visit the place again.